Too many gardeners shy away from “America’s Flower” because roses are perceived as being too difficult to care for and grow. While the hobbyist dedicated to exhibiting roses will go the extra mile for the perfect blossom, there are a multitude of good rose bushes in the market that can be enjoyed in the home landscape with ease. And with modern hybrids pushing the limit on better disease resistance, fragrance and full bodied blossoms, there are roses for all sorts of garden enthusiasts.

The general category of Shrub Roses is one such example of carefree roses. Generally grown on there own root, they are cold hardy for New England gardeners. No special care is needed in their planting except to give them adequate humus, good drainage and a location in full to part sun. They are less prone to diseases such as black spot and mildew, re-bloom on a consistent basis and do not require any specific trimming techniques. What you gain in sheer number of blossoms that cover a bush, you loose in the absence of fragrance and the smaller bloom size. Twombly Nursery carries an excellent sampling of the Meidiland series and Town & Country line of shrub roses as well as a multitude of new cultivars and old time favorites.

Floribunda roses are a second class of roses we stock here at the Nursery. Included in this category are many of the Romantica Roses and Renaissance Roses. Closely related are the English Roses most commonly associated with the David Austin selections. Floribundas are characterized by their larger clustered flowers, can be very fragrant, most will re-bloom through the season and make for a nice vase flower. They are a result of crossing polyanthas and hybrid teas. Floribundas are a nice choice for those gardeners wanting the feel of a hybrid tea, the repeat bloom of a shrub rose and the fragrance of an English rose. D.A. roses are very fragrant but less suited to our wet winters with heavy clay soil and our hot, humid summers. They are very fragrant and beautiful but do require more judgement in selection and care.

Plant these roses so that the bud union (where the grafted flowering plant meets the hardy root stock) is 1-3” below the soil line. This will protect it from winter damage. Dig the hole approximately 12-18” wide and about 18” deep - or large enough to comfortably fit the root mass of the plant plus some growing room. Potted roses should have any extending roots or pot bound new growth pulled apart or sliced with a sharp tool. This will prompt new, outward growth. Place a banana peel at the bottom of the hole for added potassium and amend your soil with compost or manure. Roses require good drainage, sufficient water during the growing season and a regular feeding schedule. The best watering is done around the base of the plant with a slow, long soaking being preferable to a quick, inefficient drink. Keeping the water off the foliage or allowing it to dry before sunset will keep down the cases of fungal diseases.

Institute a home IPM (Integrated Pest Management) program by practicing good gardening techniques with your roses. Do not randomly spray roses for the sake of spraying. Wait to the first sign of infection and start with the least invasive form of cure. This may mean using a organic soap first before resorting to a fungicide. It may entail handpicking insects off plants instead of spraying harmful insecticides. Proper placement, soil amendment, air circulation, watering and clean up all help in keeping roses looking their best in the landscape. Remember to sanitize tools and discard infected foliage in the garbage as opposed to the compost pile.

We also carry Polyantha roses such as ‘The Fairy’, classic Hybrid Teas like ‘Peace’ and a wide assortment of Rugosa roses which are an excellent landscaping rose for the novice or homeowner. Climbing roses, Antiques and Miniatures are also categories of roses that we will stock to different degrees. Look for a fresh sampling of roses around the first of May each year and visit us regularly to see the blossoms pour forth!

Shrub Roses

Planting - early Spring to early summer & September through November in average to humus rich soil.
Fertilizing - granular slow-release fertilizer in early spring & a liquid foliage fertilizer every 10-15 days until mid summer. Work in 2 tablespoons of Epsom salts for added magnesium to promote healthy, green foliage, strong roots, canes and well developed flowers. This can be done in early spring and again in late fall. Ash, fish emulsion, banana peels and aged manure are other beneficial additives.
Trimming - minimum trimming is recommended but they can be cut back anytime to shape the bush, keep it in size and open it up for good air circulation.
Winter Care - no special requirements.

Floribundas & David Austin English Roses

Planting - early Spring to early summer & September through November in a well drained rich soil with the graft buried 1-3” below the soil line.
Fertilizing - granular slow-release fertilizer in early spring & a liquid foliage fertilizer every 10-15 days until mid summer. See above Epsom salt notes. Ash, fish emulsion, banana peels and aged manure are other beneficial additives.
Trimming - early spring as the leaf buds swell but before they open. Cut back hard to 12” or so by removing crossing canes and weak canes as well as dead wood. Leave only 3 to 5 canes promoting strong new canes and larger blossoms. Top pruning will result in weaker canes and smaller flowers. During the season, cut flowers for a bouquet or deadhead by cutting on a 45 degree angle just above an outward facing bud union down the cane until reaching a cluster of 5 leaves. The further down you cut, the stronger the resulting new growth will be.
Winter Care - pile 10-18” of mulch, shredded oak leaves and salt hay on top of the crown for winter protection.

Rugosa Roses

Planting - early Spring to early summer & September through November in average to poor sandy soil.
Fertilizing - granular slow-release fertilizer in early spring - they are not heavy feeders.
Trimming - cut back hard in Spring for dense growth or anytime to shape the bush, keep it in size and open it up for good air circulation. Be careful not to deadhead too late in the season as you will remove the ensuing “hips”.
Winter Care - leave decorative red and orange “hips” on the plant for ornamental value.

Climbers

Planting - early Spring to early summer & September through November on a fence, arbor, trellis or other structure.
Fertilizing - granular slow-release fertilizer in early spring & a liquid foliage fertilizer every 10-15 days until mid summer. See above Epsom salt notes. Ash, fish emulsion, banana peels and aged manure are other beneficial additives.
Trimming - trim winter dieback to green wood. Some climbers bloom on new wood, others bloom on old wood. Extra winter protection should be given to old wood bloomers. For added cane strength and flower production leave only 3 of the strongest canes to climb on the support. During the season deadhead and trim as need be.
Winter Care - either wrap the top portion of the canes to protect from winter winds and sun scorch or remove the canes from the support, lay them on the ground and mulch over the top of them for winter protection. If left alone, expect some die back in New England.