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Planting & Plant Care Tips
How do I Plant?
For trees or shrubs, the size of the hole to be dug should be roughly 1½ to 2 times larger than the container or root ball (at a minimum). The soil that is removed from the hole can be mixed with a 20% ratio of compost or aged manure, which not only adds to the organic content of the soil, but provides a light dose of nutrients. Add some of this mixture to the bottom of the hole so that when the plant is placed in the hole, the soil around the plant will be of the same consistency.
Planting too deep is a common mistake and very often leads to the slow death of the plant. Look for the root flare - where the tree trunk starts to flare out and the root system begins. This is the level at which the plant should be planted (remove any excess soil from around the trunk and if in doubt plant a few inches above the grade). It is better to err on the side of a wider and shallow hole rather than a deep and narrow hole.
For container plants, inspect the roots and pry the roots away a little from the soil. This will allow the roots to get a start in finding adequate water and spread out in a healthy manner. The root ball needs to stay intact so do not be over aggressive if it is a newly planted tree or shrub. If the plant has burlap wrapped around the root ball, cut all ropes off from around the trunk, pull back the burlap and tuck it down along the sides. The only burlap that must be removed is plastic coated burlap, the natural type will bio-degrade in the soil. You should also cut a few slits in the burlap to assist the roots in breaking free from the material.
After positioning the plant in the hole, fill it with soil halfway and fill the hole with water. Let the water soak in and finish filling the hole with soil being sure not to leave any air pockets. Create a saucer of soil around the plant to catch and hold rainwater and mulch with 3 inches of composted bark and leaves. Do not mulch right up to the collar of the tree trunk but rather leave a ring of 6 inches or so. Most plants do not need staking so resort to it only if absolutely necessary due to location or week plant condition.
What do I do if I'm not Ready to Plant Yet?
If you are unable to plant your purchases as soon as you get home or shortly thereafter, give them the proper amount of sun or shade that the plant demands and keep them well watered. Do not let the plant dry out completely as this will stress the plant and possibly make it difficult to get established once it is planted. Every plant is happier in the ground so the sooner you plant your selections the better.
How Often Should I Water?
There are many different variables affecting the amount of water each plant needs. Things such as the moisture retention of the soil, exposed areas to drying winds, strong afternoon sunlight and periods of drought all affect the watering needs of a plant. The rule of thumb is at least one inch of rainfall per week or an equivalent supplied by irrigation. If the weather is very hot and dry, the plants can lose moisture through their leaves faster than they can take water up from their roots. New plantings are working hard at developing new roots, and without adequate water, roots will dry out and the plant will fail.
Slow deep watering is much more effective than a light sprinkling which encourages roots to the surface where they are much more likely to dry out and develop a weaker plant. A first year plant should be watered the entire year right into autumn. It provides an excellent insurance for the plant's survival through the winter. The more water a plant can store before the ground freezes, the greater it's ability to withstand drying winter sunshine and winds. This is especially important with needled and broad leaf evergreens that loose moisture through their leaves during the winter months.
Should I Mulch?
Yes! To keep the weeds down and to retain moisture in the soil, mulch is a valuable addition to any garden. We have found that an organic mulch of shredded hardwoods, leaves and composted waste makes for an excellent top dressing. Not only does it provide the traditional benefits of a mulch application but when it breaks down it adds to the composition of the soil and benefits plant growth.
 When Should I Fertilize?
Early spring, from the end of February or the beginning of March should be the first feeding of the year. The plants are just breaking dormancy and are ready to take up nutrients from the soil. By fertilizing at this time you get the plants off to a vigorous start. Apply the fertilizer around the drip line of the plant, scratch it into the soil and water it in well. A second feeding can take place at the end of May or beginning of June.
For shrubs and trees we recommend a balanced slow release granular fertilizer with a formula in the area of 4-6-4. Organic fertilizers can be safely applied any time of the year while commercial formulas are best used prior to the heat of summer. Organics also have the added benefit of enriching the development of the soil as opposed to a commercial mix leeching quickly out of the soil.
A light application is recommended at the time of planting for root development only. Do not push foliage and flower production with a high nitrogen fertilizer. The plant is trying to establish new roots and all its energy should go to this end. Certain groups of plants have different fertilizing requirements in regard to formulas and number of applications. Refer to the labeling for directions on the amounts and frequency of applications for specific plants i.e. rhododendrons, hollies, blueberries, fruit trees, etc…
When Should I Prune?
It's difficult to generalize when it comes to pruning plants because there are so many different growth habits and bloom times. If in doubt, the basic rule of thumb for shrubs is to cut them back right after they finish blooming. This way you do not trim off the buds being set in the following months for next seasons bloom. Evergreens can be trimmed almost anytime with the exception of late summer or fall. Pruning stimulates new growth, which could be nipped back by frost, thus damaging the plant.
Plants should be pruned to remove dead or old wood, to reshape a plant and for the health of a plant. This could be for added air circulation, the removal of crossing branches or the pruning out of damaged and weak wood. The general rule is to err on the side of caution, step back a number of times as you prune and inspect your results. You can safely prune up to one third of a shrub's branches or stems without overly stressing the plant. Winter is an excellent time to prune woody ornamentals and fruit trees. Some plants such as spireas can be pruned heavily while others such as hydrangeas require knowledge of the type of hydrangea you are dealing with.
There are many detailed publications available to assist you with your pruning needs. It may seem like a daunting task at first but with a little preparation, practice and patience you can tackle most home landscape pruning tasks.
How do I Protect My Plants in Winter?
Most damage to plants in winter is caused by sun scorch and wind burn, snow coverage for an excessive amount of time on broadleaf evergreens and up-rooting or bud damage due to the freeze thaw cycle of mid-season.
The best start in protecting plants from winter damage is to first site the plant correctly. Be aware of winter sun patterns, exposed locations, and wind prone areas. Another easy solution is to be sure the plants go into winter dormancy well watered and not stressed due to drought. A fresh application of mulch will assist in insulating newly planted shrubs and trees from going up and down in the annual January-February freeze-thaw cycle.
In addition, it is best to apply an anti-desiccant such as Wilt-Pruf to your broadleaf evergreens such as rhododendrons, hollies and laurels. This will assist the plant from losing too much moisture through their leaves in drying winter conditions. While wrapping a plant in a protective covering is a bit unsightly, it will provide excellent protection to plants prone to bud and leaf damage. Everything from flowering hydrangeas to prized azaleas will benefit from the extra layering. Buds will not get zapped and dried out and foliage will not wilt or be exposed to excessive moisture on their foliage.
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