Any suggestions on how to slow down the damage to plants from a growing deer population?
While it's probably impossible to eliminate all deer damage, you can limit it with a combination of safeguards. Begin with a selection of deer resistant plants such as: Abies, Amelanchier, Berberis, Buxus, Cornus vars., Ilex glabra, Magnolias, Picea abies, glauca & Pungens, Pieris japonica, Pinus mugo & nigra, Spirea & Syringa to name a few. Plant these plants in front of favored plants and use in combination with a deer repellent spray such as Tree Guard with its 120 day residue. Since deer are attracted to plants with high nutrients, it is wise to pay attention to the nitrogen content of fertilizers and plant feeding needs. Deer fencing or two low barriers set within a 3' width of each other will also keep out or deter the deer from entering a property or garden. Good luck!
Any suggestions on how to slow down the damage to plants from a growing deer population?
Yes! There are a number of good perennial and semi-evergreen groundcovers that will fit the bill. Epimediums provide wonderful foliage year round and have unique sprays of short starry blossoms. Early spring flowers range from apricot in E. cantabrigense 'Orange Queen' to the white of E. youngianum 'Niveum' to yellows and reds. Waldensteinia is also a handsome evergreen groundcover with yellow flowers in spring. Galium with its soft foliage and masses of small white flowers in May is a nice contrast to large leaved plants. The Tiarellas are an underused plant that has been greatly improved upon by the hybridizers. Great maple leaf like foliage with black splotches combines with a very long bloom time of short white or pink bottlebrush blossoms. Or try Pulmonarias for gorgeous spotted or white colored foliage and dainty pink & blue belled flowers. They quickly establish clumps to cover a wide area. Fragarias, Lamiums, & Phlox stolonifera are other worthwhile choices to liven up a shady nook or woodland garden.
What is the best way to protect a screening of Hemlocks from disease?
Wooly Adelgids and Fiorinia Scale on Hemlocks (Tsuga) can be controlled if caught at the early stages of infestation. During March, after it warms up but before the new growth starts, spray the entire plant with dormant oil. It needs to dry 2-3 hours before the temperature drops below 32 degrees. A second application may be needed and can be applied in June to early July at a 1 oz. Dormant oil to 1 gal. of water ratio (follow the directions on the bottle regarding temperature range for applications). The spreading rate is approximately 3.5 oz. per gal. of water on your applicator. It is important to get as close to 100% coverage as possible. This means you'll need to spray up, under the needles. Dormant oil is organic and safe to use.
My Hydrangeas failed to flower very well last year. Any suggestions?
Hydrangeas are long lived plants and respond well to early spring pruning by removing darker older cans (about 1/3rd on a 4 year old plant). Remove dried flowers heads as the buds begin to swell in spring and mulch to provide nutrients and to cool surface roots. Hydrangeas and Lilacs tend to bloom heavily every other year. Extended periods of non-performance could be due to over fertilizing-with too much nitrogen pushing new foliage growth at the expense of flower production-winter damage to buds, improper pruning or drastic site misplacement.
How do I get those vibrant red stems on my Cornus sanquinea?
The Cornus alba, sanquinea, sericea (Redtwig dogwoods among others) should be trimmed back early in the spring to rejuvenate the plant. For the brightest twig color, remove the oldest stems by cutting them back to the ground. It will equal about 1/3rd of the entire plant. This way you'll enjoy the show the following fall, winter and spring.
My border planting is looking very mundane. What can I do to "liven up" this planting of broadleaf evergreens?
A change in texture is one of the easiest ways to add interest to a planting. If you have a grouping of broadleaf shrubs, look at placing a needled evergreen next to them for visual interest. Going one step further, consider accenting the planting with a yellow or blue needled evergreen. The same can be done with deciduous shrubs, berry producing plants and the addition of small ornamental trees. You may also want to break away from the "cookie cutter" approach to suburban landscaping. Add unique plants, natives, ornamental vegetables accents, containers of annuals, cascading vines and hardscape that are personal and to your liking. You'll create a much more interesting garden to explore and relax in.
Fragrance seems to be missing from my home landscape. What plants can I add for spring before I "stop to smell the roses"?
Luckily, the publics' demand is forcing growers to reconsider this attribute. A throw back to the days of our grandmother's garden has gardeners looking for plants that have a pleasing scent. While there are many selections, here are a few of our favorites: When the Daphnes are in bloom, the entire nursery sales yard takes on the scent of these incredibly fragrant shrubs. D. 'Carol Mackie' is one of the best. Fothergilla gardenii 'Mt. Airy' is a superb selection that is underused. Striking foliage, bottlebrush flowers and a scent of honey highlight this plant. Azalea vaseyi and A. viscosum are wonderful native, deciduous shrubs that do well in wet areas with a bit of shade. They are very fragrant, make a spectacular show in flower and again in the fall with striking foliage color. Philadelphus x 'Janet Reidy' is a cultivar with Connecticut roots. It has very fragrant, semi-double flowers and grows to 6'-perfect for todays borders. Viburnums offer many plants to choose from. V. burkwoodi 'Mohawk', V. caresii and V. x 'Juddii' are a few selections with heady, spicy scents.
Any ideas for rose selections for a shady spot?
The two best that come to mind are real winners. Rosa glauca (rubrifolia) has beautiful soft glaucous purple-blue leaves in sun, gray-green with a mauve tinge in shade. Its flowers are a single deep pink with a white eye, followed by bright red hips held all winter. Its reddish violet stems are an added bonus. We'll have all different sizes up to 6' in stock this spring at the nursery. R. 'Zephirine Drouhin' is an older rose gaining popularity with today's gardeners. It's a climber with loose semi-double blossoms of vivid cerise-carmine giving an outstanding massing effect. It grows vigorously to 15-20 feet. Its dark green foliage is coppery-purple when young and mildew resistant. An added bonus is its thornless canes.
What plants would be suitable for a vertical accent in a small garden space?
Shrinking garden space is one of the key reasons for the increased popularity of fastigate plants. These plants are a great way to add an explanation point to a border. Whether to anchor a corner or add an unexpected punch to a garden, the choices are wonderful. For the former area, Fagus sylvatica 'Red Obelisk' (purple leaf beech) has a compact habit and gorgeous branch structure with interesting foliage. Carpinus betulus 'Fastigiata' (Hornbeam) is known for its dense form and fine texture. Formal and small gardens could benefit from Ilex crenata 'Skypencil' with its tight foliage or Juniperus communis 'Compressa' with its dwarf, narrow habit for accenting a pygmy conifer or rock garden. Berberis, Buxus, Quercus and Thuja are among others that will provide that vertical interest in the landscape. Vines and trained standards are also good choices in this area. Try one and see the difference it can make in the landscape.
Can you tell me the best way to care for my lawn in the spring?
Early April is an excellent time to rake out debris from a lawn, correct the ph value of the soil, and top dress with seed. May is the time to fertilizer with our organic line of GROWERS Fertilizer. It not only greens up a lawn but also adds nutrients to the soil, helps with breaking down thatch, and is environmentally safe. With the continued use of GROWERS over a one-year period, you'll have a thick, lush green lawn without that quick fix chemical application. Keep the grass cut at a height that removes no more than 1/3rd of the new growth and you'll have a lawn worthy of your home and garden beds.
